A type of family-owned eatery found across Mexico serving traditional Mexican dishes.
In recent years, the understanding of a fonda has evolved to include both high-end restaurants and casual eateries, but the latter are more common – most only comprising of a few tables.
Breakfast, ‘antojitos’ or snacks, tacos, or ‘comida corrida’ – a three-course lunch – is the usual offering. Though unpretentious, the food across fondas are personal recipes passed down through generations, reflecting each family’s interpretations of Mexican cuisine. Some urban places serve dishes with a nod to other cuisines, like paella-adjacent rice dishes, whilst others serve items like chilaquiles, a classic and nostalgic comfort dish for many a Mexican.
Chef Santiago’s go-to fonda is Los Colorines in Tepoztlan.
An integral part of his childhood, he’d visit after school and on the weekends with his mother and brother to enjoy one of his favourites: chicken and mole. With its iconic bright fuschia walls and open kitchen stoves with dishes ready to serve, Los Colorines brings a special sense of nostalgia.
In essence, a fonda is a home from home. A place where one enjoys essential Mexican food as it should be, in the company of friends, family, or alone.